February 19, 2009

Cusco to San Jeronimo

Today we left Cusco to start our drive back to Lima. We drove along the coast to get here but are driving back through the mountains. On the map, it looks like a good, major road, but the research we've done at the South American Explorers' Club indicates that the road is often impassable and very rough. We've driven on one-lane dirt roads all over the world and feel confident that this one can't be much worse (Hah!) It does include the highest navigable road in the world and I can imagine that the landscape will be beautiful. The red line on the map shows our route here and the blue one is our planned route back:



We had traveled on the road as far as Abancay before so that wasn't a problem. Then we turned north toward Andahuaylas and the road immediately turned to dirt - a surprise since the map showed it as "all-weather surfaced". I guess it was, but the surface was dirt!







We stopped on the side of the road for a lunch of our leftovers from the apartment. The road climbed up through beautiful countryside but it's very narrow with sheer drop-offs on each side. The GPS shows 13,900 feet.





There's almost no traffic but quite a few beautiful Quechua women and children herding sheep and goats along the road. I'm glad we carried candy in the car as gifts!









We stopped at an overlook with a public toilet in the middle of nowhere!





As it gets later, it's obvious that we won't make Andahuaylas before dark. We met several double-decker buses on the narrow road and had to back up to find a place wide enough for both of us! We finally arrived in San Jeronimo and found a hotel with a car park and a restaurant across the street. It wasn't four star, but was fine for the night.











We drove 345 kilometers today in 10 hours.

February 18, 2009

Cusco

We spent today buying last minute gifts and packing. Packing is always a challenge because Tom collects walking canes and masks that have to be wrapped carefully. We bought a straw basket at the market and some plastic tubing in a hardware store. Everything also has to fit inside our little rental car since we'll be driving back over several days. We finally finished packing everything at 8 PM and are ready for our adventure tomorrow.

February 17, 2009

Cusco, Sacsayhuaman

We started the day with our usual breakfast of tea, boiled eggs, toast, cheese, and jam. I was sure to take my antibiotics today! We decided to spend the day exploring the Inca ruins near Cusco. We had been warned many times that we should not go alone, not go early or late, not take any valuables, not drive our car, not walk in remote parts of the ruins because of robbers. So we were a little nervous but we went alone, drove, took my cameras, and walked everywhere with no problems at all. The four ruins around Cusco are Sacsayhuaman (Tom loves to say that), Qenko, Puca Pucara and Tambo Machay. There are a lot of impressive stones, ceremonial baths, and beautiful views of Cusco.





























We stayed at the ruins until we got hungry and then drove back down into Cusco for a wonderful dinner at PachaPapa Restaurant. I had trout and Tom had lomo cooked in a beautiful wood-burning oven. We just managed to finish before the rain started again.

February 16, 2009

Cusco

Not many photos today! I was feeling too confident and quit taking my antibiotic a few days ago. I paid for it today and spent most of the day sleeping and trying to keep down some liquids. We did go to the South American Explorers' Club and read some trip reports on our possible route back through the mountains. We also tried to do a little shopping in the artisans market, but it was mostly a day for recuperation.









Maggi mushroom soup prepared on our little gas stove for supper and early to bed!

February 15, 2009

Cusco

A day for shopping in the market and doing laundry. We had wanted for some time to have a liquado for breakfast in the mercado so we did that today. The liquado has about 15 different fruits, honey and other natural ingredients. It was really good! Then we tried the quail eggs that are sold by vendors with little quail egg factories - a push cart with quails underneath, a boiler on top to cook the eggs, and salt, pepper and sauces - five eggs for 1 sole. We walked all over town and then stopped for lunch at a restaurant with balconies over the street. The specialty of the day was cuy - guinea pig. Tom had his roasted with potatoes and stuffed peppers. I had mine curried in yogurt sauce. They were both good but very messy to eat! We spent the rest of the day walking around town and bought 5 tuna (cactus fruit) for supper.